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Wheel Toe Adjustment
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As you can imagine there are many things to take into consideration when towing a travel trailer. The following are towing tips to make your journey safe and hassle free once your trip begins.

Checklist

When hooking up a travel trailer try to do things in the same order each time and use a checklist.

Tow Ratings

This item is here as a reminder because at this point you should have a tow vehicle that is able to tow the weight of your trailer. You can find your vehicle's tow ratings in the vehicle owner's manual. It is crucial that you don't exceed this weight. Going over the rated weight can cause handling difficulties, insufficient power in a tow vehicle and poor fuel mileage.

Weight Distribution

Load the trailer properly by storing heavy items low and forward and lightweight articles high. This will keep the trailer's center of gravity low and will help minimize sway, wobble and swing. It will enable you to maintain more control over your trailer.

Secure The Load

Make sure everything in your trailer is put away in cabinets and whatever is not in cabinets is safely tied down so it can't move. Checking the fridge is a good idea to make sure there is nothing that will spill or be thrown around during the trip. You wouldn't want to get to your destination and find a fridge full of broken eggs or spilled milk. Not a fun way to start your trip.

Hitch

Check the label to make sure your trailer does not exceed the suggested maximum tongue weight and towing capacity. Inspect hitch for cracks and rust before hooking up. The hitch will have 10% of the total trailer weight if trailer is loaded properly.

Ball

Check the label and make sure you don't exceed the suggested towing capacity. The ball should be lightly greased so trailer can turn smoothly and it should be located so the trailer sits level when attached to tow vehicle. Inspect ball for cracks and rust before hooking up.

Safety Chains

Safety chains provide added insurance that the trailer will not detach from the tow vehicle. Attach in a crisscross pattern under the trailer tongue, allowing enough slack for turns, but short enough to not drag along the ground. This prevents the tongue from dropping to the road if the trailer coupler separates from the hitch ball.

Weight Distributing Bar

By using a weight distribution hitch you are transferring some of the tongue weight to the front axle of your tow vehicle when you set the chains on the bars of the weight distribution hitch. Finding the correct link point may take a few tries. If you don't apply enough tension on the bars, you'll find yourself swaying, on the other hand if you put too much tension on the bars, you will be taking the weight off the back of vehicle.

Connector

Connectors need constant attention because they tend to corrode easily. Ensure the wiring is loose enough to make turns without disconnecting or touching the ground. Once you have it connected check the running lights, turning lights and brake lights to make sure they are working properly.

Brakes

Make sure the brakes are working.

Tires

Checking tires tends to get overlooked when towing a trailer. You should do a thorough check before leaving on a trip by measuring the tire pressure and a quick check whenever you fill up for gas which can be done by feeling each tire with your hand. Recommended pressures are indicated on the tire sidewalls. Also be sure the tow vehicle's tires are properly inflated. Please remember that with multiple axles and tandem wheels it is sometimes hard to tell if you have a flat just by looking at the tires because of the many wheels supporting the weight. You can usually check this by putting your hand over all the tires, the one that is hottest is the one losing air. The best way to be safe on the road is to measure the tires. Overloading and underinflation are the most common causes of tire failure.

Wheel Bearings

The bearings should be kept in good repair. If the bearings are not working correctly, the internal rollers are not moving freely. If the bearings are not properly greased, they can get so hot that they will actually weld themselves to spindle assembly. A total failure of wheel bearings will cause the wheel to stop turning which may cause an accident. In order to prevent this the wheel bearings should be checked at least once a year.

Commercial Weight Scale

The best way to know the actual weights of your tow vehicle, trailer and tongue weight is to use a public commercial weight scale. In order to be sure you are not overloaded you must weigh the vehicle and trailer fully loaded. It may take over half an hour to determine your weights but the time you spend doing this will save you time and money with unexpected repairs to your tow vehicle or trailer and possible breakdowns during your trip. Make sure you write these numbers down and keep them as a reference in the future.

Towing Mirrors

Towing a trailer creates many blind spots. Make sure you have adequate mirrors that give you the visibility you need for safe towing. Adjust your mirrors so you can see at least 200 feet (60m) behind the vehicle once the trailer is hooked up. If you have limited visibility you have two options; 1. install extended mirrors that replace your current mirrors, 2. attached a small mirror to your existing side-view mirror. This will enable you to see rear and side approaching traffic and be safe on the road.

E. Widmer is an entrepreneur and an avid rv'er. To read more information about travel trailers please click here: [http://www.travel-trailer-gurus.com]

Bike Parts Glossary

People who are new to the cycling world are often surprised by all the different bike parts that go into building one basic bike. With all the variety out there, working on a bike can quickly become a daunting task. To help eliminate some confusion, we've created this bike parts glossary. Here you'll find basic explanations for all the components you need to build a bike that is rideable.

The bike parts below are listed in alphabetical order.

Bottom bracket: A bottom bracket sits between the cranks and contains the bearing cartridges that allow the crankset to spin.

Brake cables/hoses: These connect the brake levers to the brakes themselves. Cables are used to control mechanical brakes. Hoses are used with hydraulic disc brakes.

Brake levers: These are the pieces you squeeze to engage the brakes. Mountain bike brake levers are clamped horizontally to the handlebar. Road levers are clamped vertically. Some brake levers (more commonly road brake levers) are integrated with the shifter.

Brakes: When you need to stop your bike, the brakes apply friction to the wheels, slowing you down. There are several types of brakes:

• Disc brakes consist of a metal disc that is attached to the wheel's hub. A caliper attached to the bike's frame or fork squeezes the disc between two brake pads to stop the wheel. Disc brakes can be controlled mechanically or hydraulically.
• V-brakes squeeze the rim to stop the wheel. They attach to the fork or frame in a vertical position and provide great leverage for easy stopping.
• Cantilever brakes put pressure on the rim as well. They connect to the bike in a more horizontal position.
• Road brakes are like V-brakes and cantilever brakes, but both brake pads are connected over the wheel, where the assembly attaches to the bike.

Cassette: Essentially, the cassette is a group of stacked cogs. It attaches to the rear wheel and grabs the chain so the wheel turns with the chain's movement.

Chain: The chain connects the crankset and chainring to the rear cassette, so when you pedal, the bike actually moves. When the chain is moved up a level or down a level on the cassette and chainring assembly (switching gears), you get more or less resistance in pedaling. In order to work properly, the chain should be compatible with the chainring, cassette and size of frame.

Chainrings: These are the larger rings connected to the crankset. They have teeth around the perimeter for grabbing the chain and holes (usually five) in the middle to connect to the spider. The diameter of the invisible circle these middle holes adhere to is called the "bolt circle diameter."

Crankset: Pedals are attached to crank arms, and a pair of crank arms makes up a crankset. Often, cranksets are sold with the spider and chainring. "Integrated cranksets" are those that have the spindle attached.

Derailleurs: These control the lateral movement of the chain. A front derailleur moves the chain on the front chainring, while the rear derailleur moves it on the rear cassette. Some derailleurs clamp on to the frame of the bike. Others are brazed on.

Fork: The fork assembly consists of the steerer tube, which is inserted through the head tube of the frame, and two posts, which hold the front wheel.

Frame: The bike frame is the tubing (usually metal or carbon) to which every other bike part is attached. They come in a variety of sizes and designs. Taller people require a larger frame than shorter people.

Grips: Usually rubber, grips are sleeves that slide over the ends of mountain bike and cruiser handlebars. They provide your hands with cushioning and greater control.

Handlebar: The tube you use to control the front wheel.

• Mountain bike handlebars stretch perpendicularly across the front wheel--basically one straight bar. The clamp diameters (where the stem clamps on to the handlebar) on mountain handlebars are either 25.4mm or 31.8mm (referred to as "oversized").
• The tube of a road handlebar curves out perpendicularly to the front and drops down and under to allow for a more aerodynamic and aggressive riding stance. The clamp diameters on road handlebars are usually 26.0mm or 31.8mm.
• Triathalon (or aero) handlebars stretch out in front of the bike over the wheel and allow the rider to rest on his/her forearms while riding.

Handlebar tape: This is wrapped around the ends of road bike handlebars to provide cushioning and grip. It is often leather or cork and comes in a variety of colors, textures and thicknesses.

Headset: Headsets help keep the fork secured to the frame, and they provide the ball bearings for smooth steering. When used with regular, non-quill stems, they can also cap off the steering tube.

Hubs: At the center of every bicycle wheel is a hub. It connects to the spokes and contains the bearings that make it possible for the wheel to turn. It is the hub that secures the wheel to the frame or fork. Rear hubs are equipped to hold the cassette. Front hubs are usually simpler and narrower. Some hubs are designed to facilitate disc brakes.

Pedals: These small platforms allow you to propel the bike with your feet. They are attached to the crank arms. Basic pedals are flat platforms. Pedals for more advanced riders have toe clips or cleats designed specifically for bike shoes.

Rims: The main piece of a wheel, the rim holds the tire and tube, and connects to the spokes. There are a few different kinds of rims:

• Clincher: These are the most common rims. The upper edge of a clincher rim has a lip that grabs on to the tire to create a seal when inflated.
• Sew-up or tubular: Some rims have the tire glued or sewed to the rim, so the tire and rim become basically one piece.
• Disc: Rims without a machined braking surface are called disc rims and are designed to use with disc brakes attached to the hub.

Saddle: In more common terms, this is the bike seat.

Seat clamp: This clamp keeps the seatpost from sliding around inside the seat tube. Most seat clamps today are quick-release, meaning you don't need a wrench or any kind of tool to loosen and tighten the clamp.

Seatpost: Saddles connect to seatposts, which are inserted inside the frame's seat tube. A seatpost allows you to adjust the height of the saddle.

Shifter cables: These metal cables connect the shifters on the handlebar to the derailleurs. When the shifter is moved, the cable moves with it and adjusts the derailleur, which moves the chain and changes gears.

Shifters: The levers you move to change gears. These are clamped on to the handlebars. Some are integrated with the brake levers.

Skewers: These are basically the axels of bike wheels. A skewer fits through the hub and clamps the wheel to the frame or fork. Today's skewers are usually quick-release, so no tools are necessary to loosen the clamp and remove the wheel.

Spider: The spider is the piece that connects the crank arm to the chainring.

Spindle: The spindle is the metal piece that slides through the bottom bracket to connect the crankset.

Spokes: These are the (usually) thin metal rods that connect the wheel's hub to the rim.

Stem: Connects the steering tube (on top of the fork) to the handlebar. A regular bike stem clamps onto the steering tube. A quill stem is inserted into the steerer tube. Both clamp around the middle of the handlebar.

Tires: There are several different types of bike tires:

• Road bike tires are thinner and have less tread than mountain bike tires. They are typically 700cm in diameter and are designed for riding on asphalt and cement.
• Mountain bike tires are wider and feature aggressive tread. They are usually 26 inches in diameter, and some are 29 inches. They are designed for riding on rugged mountain trails.
• Hybrid/commuter tires usually fit a 26-inch rim but don't feature the aggressive tread that a regular mountain bike tire would. They are designed to adapt your mountain bike for the road.

Tubes: Bicycle tubes come in different sizes to match different tires. One important part of a bike tube is its valve stem, where you connect a pump to inflate the tube. Some have a Presta valve, and some have a Schrader. Presta is smaller than Schrader, and your rim will have a hole designed for one or the other, so make sure your tube has a valve stem that matches the rim.

I suggest Bike Wagon for Bike Parts.

About the Author

Jon Carter is an avid cyclist and enjoys biking and writing about it.  Make sure to check out Bike Wagon for your bike parts

What causes wheels to go out of alignment?

I've Googled for information about wheel alignments, and I've so-far found plenty of websites that tell you *how* wheel alignments are performed and what kinds of adjustments are done to your car during the procedure. But I can't seem to find much that explains exactly *why* car wheels go out of alignment in the first place. I know that hitting too many big potholes or getting into an accident might bend a tie rod which would affect your toe-in, but what else happens that eventually moves your wheels out of their correct position? Let's assume you don't hit anything or otherwise abuse the car while driving it, and that we're just talking about normal wear-and-tear.

I've done plenty of alignments so I can tell you straight up. if there was no pot holes in the road, and everything was 100% smooth and pure flat, your car would never go out of alignment - as long as the car's suspension components stay in check. Obviously as things get more worn out they tend to bend, flex, this creates stress & strain and pulls on it in different ways which forces the car to pull out of alignment when being driven. This is stuff like driving on bad springs and the like, but that's usually not the reason by a long shot.

When you align stuff, more specifically the toe and caster, as the camber's usually not effected by this as much, you just loosen the bolt, adjust it, and tighten it again, the only reason it costs a lot and you can't do it in your driveway is because of the equipment used to match everything up to 0*.

All that being said, the way a car comes out of alignment, is by a sudden "jarring" of the suspension, ie. hitting a pothole or speed bump too fast, accident, etc.

So it's just the normal wear and tear of daily driving, as no road is 100% perfect. That's why if you ever notice that if you drive one car that's pretty much ALWAYS on the highway (like a daily commuter on a long highway commute) they rarely go out of alignment (or you don't have to get them aligned as often). This is because highways are generally smoother and with less infringements than a regular road.

EDIT:
Oh, and obviously, as the guy above me said is right too, if they change things that are physically connected to alignment points on the car, or change something that's old and flexed for something that's new and rigid, they have to align it to adjust for the difference, as something old and flexed would pull it out just a bit, and it would have to be reset (aligned) when a new, rigid one is installed.

All New A7 Sportback Opens More Doors for Audi
INGOLSTADT, GERMANY – July 27, 2010: The sought-after Audi Sportback formula can now be enjoyed on an even grander scale in the all new A7 Sportback, which in a similar vein to its A5 namesake discreetly integrates saloon car versatility and hatchback practicality into an elegant premium coupe silhouette.

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This entry was posted on Saturday, December 19th, 2009 at 6:01 am and is filed under Hammers Pullers Extractors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.