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Transmission Oil Pressure
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Having spent several years in tech support with a company that sells manual transmissions, I have spoken with many customers that have made clutch installation mistakes that cost them dearly in terms of time, money and frustration. These tips are based on my experience with what is frequently overlooked by a novice that is installing a new clutch. This article is NOT a substitute for a good auto repair manual that is specific to the vehicle you are working on! If any of these tips contradict the information in your service manual, follow the service manual instead.

Tip # 1: Lubrication in all the right places (and none of the wrong places!) - Place a light coat of grease on the pilot tip of the input shaft and on the collar that the release bearing slides on. Wipe a VERY light coat of oil on the input shaft splines to prevent rust. Be careful to NOT get any grease on the flywheel, the clutch disc, or the pressure plate.

Tip # 2: Have the flywheel resurfaced, no matter how good it looks. It only costs a few dollars, and the risk of having to remove the transmission again because of a chattering clutch is not worth the money you might save.

Tip # 3: Replace the pilot bearing or bushing. If you don't have a special pilot bearing puller tool, some service manuals instruct you to remove the old bearing by packing the cavity behind the bearing with grease and using a wooden dowel or old input shaft to drive the old one out. I have found that instead of grease you can use play dough, silly putty, or even some old bread, with equal or better results and way less mess!

Tip # 4: Don't force anything! If the transmission won't slide all the way up to the back of the bellhousing, do not draw the transmission up to the bellhousing by tightening the transmission to bellhousing bolts. I can't tell you how many broken mounting ears and damaged pilot bearings I have seen! If the transmission will not slide all the way in to the bellhousing, then the clutch disc is misaligned or the input shaft is not going into the pilot bearing because the transmission is at an angle. Try this: Install or reattach the clutch linkage, and then have a helper depress the clutch pedal slightly while you wiggle the transmission around to get it aligned. When the clutch disc is released, it will move so that you can get the transmission aligned with the pilot bearing. I fought with a transmission for an hour one time before I thought of this, and then it took about five seconds once I had a helper step on the clutch pedal!

Before tackling your first clutch replacement, I highly recommend reading the complete procedure in a repair manual or factory service manual. Even if you are a seasoned veteran, it doesn't hurt to take a look at a service manual if you are replacing a clutch in a vehicle you aren't familiar with.

What is the best source for auto repair information: a factory service manual, ALLDATAdiy, or a Haynes or Chiltons manual? Take a look at the pros and cons of each on my Auto Repair Information web page. If you are looking for repair information for a classic car, visit Classic Car Repair Resources.

Keith Farren is an ASE Certified Master Technician with a Bachelors degree in Business, an Associate degree in Automotive Technology, and over twenty years experience in the automotive industry.

Basic Properties of Gear Oil

Gear systems must be cooled, lubricated, and protected by high-quality gear oils. Those same oils also flush away particles from the contact areas that can cause damage or excessive noise. These oils must also protect from high pressures and extreme temperatures to prevent unnecessary wear and tear on your differential or manual transmission. Gear oils have a duty to protect from elemental damage as well, like corrosion.

DO NOT try and use motor oil as a replacement for your gear oil. Motor oils have additives that clean byproducts from the combustion of the fuel in your engine. Motor oils do not have additives that protect from the high pressure that is created in your transmission or differential because of the way the oil is circulated in your engine. As a result, using either oil in place of the other would cause undesired results in the long term.

There are many types of protection in the additives for gear oils. Some manufacturers' additives contain most of the protections. Others contain one or a few of them, depending on the quality of the additive. When looking for an additive for your gear oil, make sure that they offer the protection you may need the most. These are the most common types of protections that are given by oil additives.

Anti-wear or extreme pressure agents minimize the “boundary lubrication” damage. Boundary lubrication situations would occur when higher-than-normal pressure is being placed on the teeth of your gears, as in heavy acceleration or deceleration. Pour point depressants lower the temperature at which the oil stops flowing, or the “pour point.” As a rule of thumb, you always want your pour point to be about 20° F below the coldest expected temperature. Anti-foaming agents lower the partiality the oil has to foam when being spun and sloshed vigorously. When this happens, tiny air bubbles become trapped in the oil and reduce the lubrication and protection qualities of the oil. Viscosity index improvers reduce the tendency for the oil to change viscosity as its temperature rises. Friction modifiers are used in situations where there is a very high amount of pressure being placed on the gears and there is a need for a friction modifier to take some of the brunt, instead of the gears. Rust and corrosion inhibitors are necessary to protect your drivetrain’s components from -- you guessed it -- rust and corrosion.

Be sure you get the properties you need the most when choosing a gear oil additive. If you live in a place that never gets too cold, you may never need a “pour point depressant.” Be sure if your vehicle has equipment that is placed under high loads, like a locking differential, you have a friction modifier that would let that component perform at its best.

Visit http://www.synthetic-motor-oils.com

About the Author

Author Vincent Platania represents the Amsoil.
Source of the World's Best Synthetic Lubricants - Motor Oil and Filters
Visit http://www.synthetic-motor-oils.com

Ford Mustang Automatic Transmission help?

I have a 2000 ford mustang that never had a problem until i let sit for a few weeks. I noticed a fluid leaking from the bottom but can't tell what it is. The engine needs to rev up a few seconds before the car shifts into gear. Also i have a low oil pressure indication. I checked the fluids on both and are normal. Any suggestions?

Low oil pressure can be due to many reasons. But simplest thing is to check your oil condition and an ATF change. If it doesn’t resolve you problem, then will have to peek inside the box, by removing oil pan. This allows checking the condition as any debris from fallen metal get collected by the magnet fixed in side the bottom of the oil pan. And then the filter can also be removed.

If this doesn’t solve, then a complete removal of tranny is needed, to check oil pump, servos for leaking seals, valve body etc. This is to be done by a professional Auto Transmission mechanic, and will cost you a considerable amount of money depending on the repair/replace needed.

India Day Ahead: Reliance Infratel Phone Tower Sale, Fuel Price Increase
Billionaire Anil Ambani ’s Reliance Communications Ltd. will cut its debt by at least $3 billion by selling its mobile-phone transmission towers, people familiar with the deal said.

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This entry was posted on Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 at 12:58 am and is filed under Tool Sets. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.