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Hi my name is Linda Tubbs, owner of Tubbs Pro Wallpapering of Hampton Roads VA. If you are stripping your wallpaper and it causes extensive drywall damage, I highly recommend hiring a professional who has the experience to get the job done quickly. But if you're a "do-it-yourself" type person and have a lot of time on your hands, then please keep reading!

If you have any questions about any of the items needed for stripping and prepping damaged walls, go to any Sherwin-Williams store and they will direct you to the most effective items.

Supplies Needed:

Wallpaper Stripper: I highly recommend the liquid form that you mix with water. Use a sprayer. DO NOT buy any type of "goo" product. They just make an even bigger mess.

Drop Cloths, Old Towels, etc: Protect your floors and carpeting!

Wallpaper scrapers and other tools for removal.

Sponges

Utility knives

Sand paper

Drywall Mud & Spreaders

Shellac-based Primer

Oil-based Primer

Your Paint or Wallpaper of Choice

Time & Patience

When stripping paper, there are three things that need to be removed:

1. Top Layer
2. Backing
3. Glue

At first try removing the top layer dry, then wetting the backing. If this doesn't work, though, I suggest using a paper tiger on the top layer, then wetting the top layer with your wallpaper stripper. Let it stand however long the label says to, then strip off the per. Often times only the top layer will come off and you will still have to re-wet the back layer to remove it. After both layers of paper are removed make sure to wipe your walls down with a sponge and/or wet cloth. If there is still a sufficient amount of glue on the walls, respray the walls and wipe/scrub off the glue.

Stripping wallpaper is already a pain, but if your paper was installed on un-primed walls then removing the paper can become a nightmare. Sometimes when you're stripping paper the top layer of drywall is also pulled off. You'll see a brown, cardboard-like substance underneath this top layer. If you mud over this drywall layer it will bubble up. How do you get passed this problem?

If you have an extensive amount of drywall damage and the mud is bubbling up, the key to solving this problem is white shellac-based primer. The shellac prevents the moisture of the mud from soaking into this cardboard-like drywall layer. Make sure to keep the area you're working in well-ventilated, and paint the shellac-based primer over all areas where the brown cardboard-like layer is showing. Let the primer dry. Now you're ready to prep your walls.

The first thing you will want to do is mud over all areas you used the shellac-based primer. If there are still areas that bubble up, wait until the mud dries to see if the bubbles suck in. If they do not, you'll have to cut out the bubbled up areas and re-prime and re-mud. Apply mud to any other areas of the wall that may have small holes,gouges, or dents from removing the wallpaper. After the mud has dried, sand your walls smooth. Please wear a mask and work in a well ventilated area!

Once your walls are smooth, paint the walls with oil-based primer. I always recommend using oil-based primer after removing wallpaper, because it counteracts any minor glue residue that was left on your walls. Oil-based primer has a very strong odor to it, so open all windows and turn on the fans. Once dry, this odor will fade. Your walls are now ready for new paint or wallpaper.

Linda Tubbs, owner & founder of Tubbs Pro Wallpapering, has been providing quality wallpaper installation, wallpaper removal, and painting in Hampton Roads VA since 1984. For more information or to view this article on her blog, please visit her website at TubbsPro.com

Don't Rush When you Install Ceramic Wall Tile in your Bathroom

You don't need to have a twenty-year experience to installing ceramic wall tile in your bathroom. A little patience and dedication will get you a long way when installing that dream ceramic tile bathroom wall you've always wanted to have.

Before anything else, gather your tiling tools together. You will need the following tools for this project: A tape measure, a tile cutter and a pair of tile nippers and a pair of pliers, tile spacers, sandpaper, a trowel (preferably notched) and a rubber grout float. To install ceramic wall tile on your bathroom walls properly, you will also need a strong setting material like tiling thinset mortar, or any of a wide selection of tile adhesives. You will also need tiling grout for filling in the gaps between your tiles. Make sure to match your setting material color with your grout.

Also prepare buckets, sponges and rags to clean your tiles of excess grout and other debris, after you're all done. And don't start to install ceramic wall tile without these essentials: You will also need a pair of safety glasses, heavy leather gloves, and long-sleeved work clothes (broken shards, and other debris can cause nasty cuts, if you are not careful). Ready to start on your dream ceramic bathroom wall? Follow the tiling instructions below and make your ceramic tiled bathroom wall and start tiling!

You can begin by finding the center of your wall. Use a carpenter's level, or long pieces of plumb to mark intersecting vertical and horizontal lines. These will be your reference lines for your tiling work. Where both lines intersect is the starting point for your first row of ceramic tiles. From that point, you may then be able to working your way to both ends of your bathroom wall. Make regular checks when you install ceramic wall tile, so that your tiling work is consistent and does run up or down in a slanting direction.

There are two types of bathroom walls you may be working on. One is the common concrete wall, and the other is a special type of called a green drywall. A green drywall is specifically designed for use in bathrooms and showers because it is designed to resist moisture intrusion. Be sure that you clean your walls of dust and debris, as well as repair cracks and fill in gaps and holes. Roughen up or scarify your wall so that your tiling mortar has some grip for bonding. That way, when you begin to install ceramic wall tile on your walls, you won't have a problem with your tiling mortar or bonding material.

After laying out your wall, you may now begin to your install ceramic wall tile. Start at your reference lines' intersection point. Apply a coat of tiling thinset mortar. Place your tile over it and press the tile down firmly in place. Give it a twisting motion to set it in place. Stop pressing when you feel your tile has set and is no longer wobbly. Duplicate this procedure with the rest of your ceramic tiles. To get a consistent tiling, place tile spacers on all the spaces between your ceramic bathroom tiles. Don't forget to check your work every now and then.

When you reach the end of your row, the space left may not be enough for the full size of your ceramic tiles. Use a tile cutter to get your tile under the right size. Then, smoothen the cut edge with sandpaper. Be careful: The edge of a cut ceramic bathroom tile is very sharp. For irregular, use your tile nippers. First draw an outline of the irregular and etch a line alonng it. Then, use your tile nipper to break off the unuseable edges, until you have required shape. Do this a little at a time, so you can control your tile nipping. Don't forget to sand the edges over.

Leave the tiles to settle overnight, at the very least, or twenty-four hours, at the most. After this setting period, it's time to lay in your grout. There are two main kinds of grout: Sanded or unsanded grout. Sanded grout is a mixture of cement, water and fine sand. Unsanded grout is any of a wide selection of polymer-based and epoxy resin adhesive grout used to install ceramic wall tile. If your tile spaces are more than an eighth of an inch wide, use sanded grout. For smaller tile spaces, use unsanded grout. Start by map out your bathroom wall and work one section at a time. To maximize your grout application, angle your rubber grout float and press down firmly as you spread it over the tile spaces. Check for pockets of air. Dab these spaces with more grout lining by using the edges of your grout float. Use a damp sponge to wipe off any excess grout. Rinse your sponge regularly so you can get a cleaner and better finish. Let your grout dry for a day and then take a dry piece of cloth and clean and buff your tiles.

Now you're done! Follow these instruction on how install ceramic wall tile, and don't forget that ceramic tiling takes some dedication and patience. Take your time and don't rush your work. When you install ceramic wall tile, the key is consistency and patience. Ceramic tiles that have been rushed will ruin your bathroom's overall look. A bathroom wall with ceramic tiles that run in haphazard inconsistent zigzag lines is not a beautiful thing to look at. And worse, it would only mean that you lack enthusiasm for what you're doing and that you haven't given it your effort.

About the Author

You don't need to be a genius to install ceramic wall tile in your home. What you need is the correct ceramic tile installation instructions.

How to paint a dry-wall room flawlessly?

I will be painting my room which has dry-walls with my father.

What are some tools I need to do the job well? Any tips, techniques, methods, or specific steps to take? How can I keep my area clean and mistake-proof while taking on this task? How much time should I allow the paint to air out before moving back in?

Thank you!

first thing to do is clean the surface. if it is new drywall, you just need to remove any excess drywall dust. if it is previously painted, use something like TSP or an ecofriendly alternative to clean the walls, and remember to rinse.
then use a primer, new drywall primer only for new drywall, a regular primer for most things, and an oilbase primer for places with smoke or water damage. apply with a roller, and use a brush or a paint pad applicator in the corners and edges.
check the can for drying time on the primer you have used.
Then use a 100 percent acrylic waterbased paint in the colour you choose. note: the duller the sheen, the better it will hide small imperfections. flat hides a lot, eggshell is great for most rooms, satin or semigloss is more washable, but usually reserved for kitchen and bathrooms. A paint pad applicator with wheels along the edge is great for "cutting in" edges and corners, and you can put a broomstick handle on it so you dont have to climb up and down ladders. a roller will let you work faster for most of the wall. once again check the drying time between coats on the back of the can, and remember that the darker the paint the longer it will take to dry. between coats you can wrap your brushes, pads and rollers in a grocery bag and put them in the freezer so you dont have to wash them.
keep the room a normal temp while you paint and you can be back in usually the next day. if you find the odors bother you, use a VOC free paint (voc's are what makes paint smell like... well, paint) benjamin moore makes one, but it is expensive. sico's designer line is voc free too, and is a little less expensive.

tools:
drop cloth, canvas if you have multiple painting jobs, plastic if this is a one time thing (you can also use an old tarp as long as it has no holes. )
decent brushes and/or a paint pad applicator
a small pail or yogurt container wide enough to dip your brush
a paint tray (look for one made of recycled black plastic. you will have to wash out your primer, but if you use a good paint, you can let it dry when you are done and it will peel out of the tray leaving it spotless-and you dont need liners.
a good roller cage, look for one without a lot of flex to prevent roller lines
lint free 10mm (3/8")pile rollers
a stool, chair, or ladder.
masking tape (look for a 7 day version, you can leave it up for the whole job and it will come off clean)
beverages and snacks!

CREEK THREAT: Johnston businesses evacuated because of probable flooding of Beaver Creek
At one company, workers rip apart walls to prevent mold. Workers at Rueter's equipment in Johnston spent Thursday tearing out the bottom four feet of dry-wall and insulation in the business office before flood water from Beaver Creek has the opportunity to destroy it.

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Tags: diy, home, office, tools, whiteboard

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