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MATERIALS

Thatching makes use of materials that are naturally available - grass or reed.

The stalks of thatching grass are normally hollow and about 3 mm thick. Dekriet stalks, however, are solid and about 3-4 mm thick. The quality of the material improves with cultivation and regular cutting. Some thatchers consider that the quality of material that is cut by hand is superior to that of material cut by mechanical means. Hand cutting will produce about 50 to 100 bundles a day. A mechanical cutter and binder will process about 6000 bundles a day.

PREPARATION

After cutting and loosely bundling, each bundle is shaken briskly to dis¬lodge all loose material. The bundles are then cleaned by passing a sickle through them. This removes the remaining leaf growth from the lower two thirds of the stalks.

The grass is then remade into bundles. These bundles are each tied with a thong of twisted grass or with twine and packed in heaps about 2m high and 3 m in diameter at the base.

When the thatch is to be used for the area immediately above the thatching battens, where the underside will often be exposed within a room, the material should be combed to ensure that the stalks are perfectly clean. A comb is made by driving a number of round wire nails into a approximately 300 mm length of horizontal pole.

THATCHERS TOOLS

The thatcher in general thatch construction normally uses five tools:

Sickle - This is used for hand cutting as well as for cleaning the cut bundles.

The thatching spade - This is usually a home-made implement consisting of a board with a handle on one flat side, rather like a plasterers float. Several metal blades are secured to the other flat side. This tool is used to dress and shape the thatch in position.

A straight needle - When it is possible to have an assistant work¬ing on the underside of the thatch, a straight needle, about 300 mm long, is used to 'stitch' the thatch to the roof battens.

A curved needle - It is used to 'stitch' the thatch to the roof battens when it is not possible to have an assistant working under the roof surface.

A climbing hook - S-shaped climbing hooks are used to give the thatcher a foot rest when working on the roof slope.

WORKMANSHIP

A typical small thatching team consists of four men; one to pass material from ground to roof level, two thatchers working on the external roof surface and one working under the roof to assist those working on the outside. Such a team can be expected to lay about 10 m2 of thatch in a day. Before each bundle is passed to the thatcher on the roof it is butted against a butting board, or on level ground, to ensure that the butt end is even and that any sharp ends are blunted. The bundles are normally thrown up to the thatcher. The grass is used in bundles as cut and laid on the roof with the butt end lowest. As each bundle is laid on the roof the thatcher cuts through the twisted grass or twine that secures it. He lays the first bundle on the corner, at an angle of at least 45°, thus exposing the butt end at the eaves and at the verge. Each bundle in the first course at eaves level is secured to the second batten with tarred sisal cord ¬thatching twine at 75 mm inter¬vals.

In this process of stitching the straight needle is used, where one man can work under the roof. If it is not possible to work under the roof the curved needle is used. Subsequent courses are secured, either with a poplar stick or with a length of 4 mm diameter gal¬vanized steel wire. The thatch is laid, two bundles thick, to a total minimum thickness of 150mm. Each successive layer con¬ceals the poplar stick or wire that secures the previous layer. As thatching proceeds a layer of selected stems is spread evenly on the roof battens to a thickness of about 12mm. This gives a neat appearance inside the roof. On top of this layer a laminated foil of aluminum and building paper reinforced with fiberglass is laid as a protection against fire. Thatching then proceeds, course by course, to the ridge level until complete.

RAINWATER DISPOSAL

Thatched roofs are generally constructed with dripping eaves; rain¬water gutters and downpipes are not normally provided. Eaves overhangs should be at least 600mm and some provision should be made at ground level, around the building, to prevent erosion due to water dripping from the eaves. This can either be in the form of a concrete apron or paved surround.

DURABILITY

A thatched roof will normally last for about 25-30 years if properly laid. Aesthetic advantage of using a thatched ridge has been mentioned previously. A disadvantage of using such a ridge is that it will require renewal every 4-6 years. As maintenance of a thatched roof invariably results in dust and pieces of straw being dislodged from the roof, the provision of a reinforced cement ridge, suitably waterproofed and colored, may be preferred.

Written by Jere Botes, architect & founder of http://www.dreamhouses.co.za - a website dedicated to provide home builders, home renovators, home owners & developers with free professional advice on all aspects of home design, building & diy and http://www.cad-architect.net - a source of over 2000 CAD Symbols, Details, Drawings and lots of other information for Architects & Building designers. Reproductions of this article are encouraged but must include a link pointing to dreamhouses.co.za or cad-architect.net

Ezine Solo Ads – the Super Affiliate’s Secret Tool

Ezine solo ads can be highly profitable and dead easy to do if you’re promoting any affiliate product. It doesn’t require as much analytical knowledge as pay-per-click or SEO, but you still have to apply the proper methods to generate a lucrative ROI from ezine solo ads.

How does it work? You simply pay a newsletter publisher to send your ezine solo ad to their mailing list.

The price depends on factors such as the number of subscribers, the quality of the leads (customer lists are much more responsive than normal subscribers), or the popularity of the ezine. Your ad is exclusive, and doesn’t contain other advertising or messages unless you permit it.

Here are some great tips to maximize the profitability of ezine solo ads:

1) The subject line is the most important part. They won’t read the rest of your solo ad if the subject line is not interesting enough to grab their attention and entice them to read further.

2) Write the most hypnotic and benefit-laden words in all caps, but don’t overdo it. This will allow the reader to take more notice of the words in all caps. For example, you could say, “This BLOWOUT offer will end after 48 hours, so GRAB IT NOW if you want to take advantage of one of the best deals ever.” If they’re only skimming, they will at least see, “BLOWOUT…GRAB IT NOW.”

3) Create a sense of urgency and scarcity. An example would be telling the readers that the offer is limited to the first 10 (or whatever number you decide) customers only, or up to a certain date or time.

4) Format the ad up to 60 characters only for a more convenient reading experience. You may use a free service like formatit.com.

5) Follow the short paragraph rule. Short paragraphs make it easier for the eyes of the reader and are easier to understand. Paragraph should be a maximum of 4 lines only.

6) Add the most convincing testimonials if they can add “power” to the solo ad.

7) Make your ezine solo ad short in scope, if possible. The longer the ad, the more prone it is to be caught by the email filters. Treat the solo ad as a teaser that directs the reader to visit the sales letter. However, a long solo ad is not a bad idea if it’s necessary, as long as you pass it through a dependable spam filter.

Put a “PS” or two that contains the biggest benefit or strongest call to action.

9) Make sure the solo ad passes through a reliable spam filter. If the person sending the solo ad has a sophisticated autoresponder (like aweber), the ezine solo ad can be checked for any spam-triggering words before being broadcasted.

10) Advertise only in ezines or newsletters that are identical to the topic of the affiliate product you’re promoting. Here are recommended sources where you can place your ezine solo ads or negotiate with ezine publishers:

http://solo-ads.com/

http://www.bestezines.com/

http://new-list.com/

About the Author

Michael Lee manages one of the top money making affiliate programs online. He provides highly profitable and free affiliate marketing tips, tools and resources to help you skyrocket your affiliate earnings at http://www.20daypersuasion.com/affiliateforce.html

What the things that connected to a bicycle's tire are called?

Giant brand
Boulder model Light 4130 model
CR-MO type

What the metal rod called that goes through a bicycle tire that allow you to tighten it without using any tool to tighten it? It a silver 1in rod and it have a tiny handle for tightening it along with the hub cap to put on the end of it. I need to know that because I going to replaced it.

I can't seem to figure it out but according to the bicycle tire frame, it read 26 X 1.5 / 559. Does that mean it a 26in tire or do I have to measure it myself?

Mark is right, it's called a 'quick release skewer'. It's quite a bit longer than one inch though, unless you're referring to the lever that you tighten it with. The skewer actually goes through the axle, not the tire. It allows you to remove the whole wheel. The tire is just the rubber part.

Why would you want to replace it? Unless some one really cranked on the lever with a tool, it's nearly impossible to break those. You shouldn't use any more than normal hand strength to tighten a quick release. If you've left a mark on your hand that lasts more than a few seconds, you've over tightened it.

Mark is also right about the tire.

Thursday's news and tips
■ Tate & Lyle has sold the largest part of its sugars division to American Sugar Refining of the US for £211m - a deal which will see it lose some of its well known brands.

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, July 7th, 2009 at 8:22 pm and is filed under Wrenches. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.