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Suspension Remover Installer
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The Victory motorcycles with the 5-speed transmission has gearing that is a little short. First gear is almost not usable and high gear is not high enough. This two teeth larger pulley makes your bike more user friendly.

The Victory 32 Tooth Overdrive Pulley. Fits All 03-05 Victor motorcycles and 99-01 Victory's with Upgraded Transmission. This pulley will decrease RPM by 7% and uses All Factory Parts. I decided to install this pulley on my 2004 Victory Kingpin and write up step-by-step installation instructions along with photos of the install. The photos can be seen at the Victory Kingpin Cruisers site at the following link http://www.kingpincruisers.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=56. Below are my working notes for doing the installation.

I was doing other maintenance and decided to put the bike on a jack.

You do not need to remove the wheel. In fact you want to leave it on to help in the removal of the sprocket.

I removed the slip-on part of the exhaust first to lighten the exhaust.

Remove the belt guard.

Remove the right-side drive floor board so you can pull the exhaust off.

Prior to removing the exhaust.

Note the condition of the exhaust flange nuts.

The exhaust flange bolts may be rusted. Spray with WD-40 and let stand overnight to loosen them up.

After you get these flange nuts off, remove the exhaust.

Here is the Kingpin with everything removed.

Exhaust, belt cover, driver right-side floor board.

Not the wheel does not have to be removed. In fact it should be installed to help in the removal of the sprocket.

Removed exhaust. The slip on canisters are around here somewhere.

With the exhaust off, remove the sprocket pulley cover.

With the Sprokect cover off you now see the Sprocket.

Here I have the belt loose. You want it snug and the wheel on since this will be used as your resistence when removiing the spocket nut.

Another shot of the right side of the Kingpin completely stripped.

Remove the sprocket lock plate screws and lock plate.

Remove the sprocket lock plate.

The sprocket nut takes a 48mm socket.

The nut has been Loctited at the factory.

You can use either an Impact Wrench to remove. Heat it up to loosen the Loctite.

Here I am using my heat gun. It took about 10-15 minutes to where I could simply hold the rear brake pedal and remove the nut.

Let the sprocket cool down.

It will slide right off.

Next, clean off any left over Loctite gunk off of the sprocket rod threads.

After removing the nut you will have to loosen the belt to remove,and install the new pully.

The sprocket will slide right off after you loosen the belt.

Here is the lonely drive shaft in wait of it's new drive sprocket.

Stay tuned for more since this is all the further I have gotten. I need to now order the new sprocket.

Bike should be all the way tore down on the right side, Bags, Passenger Floor Board,Driver Floor Board and Controls,Side Cover for the Pulley,Belt Covers(top & bottom) and Belt removed. The worse part of the job was the Exhaust System, be careful with them. Here's a picture of the bike ready to start putting it back together. Now clean everything you have removed and clean the Engine and all areas that are exposed.

Grind the Tab that holds the Speed Sensor. Grind about 3/8's to 1/4" off the bottom of the tab but not all the way to the side of the engine block.

Keep trying the OD Pulley until it goes all the way on without hitting the Tab. The side pulley Cover will also need to be ground down to allow clearance for the drive belt. It will rub on the bolt sleeves.

Now install the Speed Sensor using washers of a thickness of about 3/8's to 1/4" put them over the screw hole and then put the Speed Sensor on top of the washers, stick the bolt in and tighten down.

Check wheel alignment and belt tension. With the bike elevated on a lift rotate the rear wheel until you find tight spot in the belt -- halfway between the front and rear pulleys. You should have about 9mm of flex with 10lb of force on the bottom. The marks on the swing arm are useless. After tension is set rotate the wheel and check belt alignment by watching the belt track on the front and rear pulleys. The drive belt should not rub on the sides of the rear sprocket.

Finally reinstall the exhaust system. Be careful not to scratch the pipes as you maneuver them into position.

Please not the manufacturer's of the Victory overdrive pulley do not include installation instructions with their product. Hopefully these instructions will help you through the installation. I have found very good help from the Kingpin Cruisers site at http://www.KingpinCruisers.net site. This install requires some good wrenching skills, but if a service tech can do it, you will surely be able to do it and do a much better job.

Contributing author to the Victory Custom shop -- Cycle Solutions http://www.CycleSolutions.net

Suspension-Alternatives.com Is Your One Stop Shop For All Lincoln Continental Air Suspension Parts!

Suspension-alternatives.com is your one stop shop for all Lincoln Continental air suspension parts and suspension conversion kits. Find Lincoln Continental Monroe shock absorbers, struts, shocks, air springs, coil springs, air bags, air shocks, conversion kits, coil over air suspensions, air ride suspension conversions, helper springs, ride control suspension, suspension air compressors, air bag suspension components and Lincoln Continental air ride suspension products. Have a suspension problem with your Lincoln Continental rear suspension or front suspension? Suspension-alternatives can help.

Air suspension is a type of vehicle suspension powered by an engine driven or electric air pump or compressor. This pump pressurizes the air, using compressed air as a spring. Air suspension replaces conventional steel springs. If the engine is left off for an extended period, the car will settle to the ground. The purpose of air suspension is to provide a smooth ride quality and in some cases self-leveling.

While not using high pressure mineral oil, the system aims to achieve a result similar to the hydro-pneumatic suspension arrangement introduced in 1954 by Citroen. With a "leg up" on other companies, GM used its experience with commercial buses' air suspension to introduce systems for its car lines, beginning with the 1958 model year. Air bags at each wheel replaced the standard coil springs, and had sensors to keep the car level under load and in turns. It was too slow to react in sudden maneuvers, however.

Air bag or air strut failure is usually caused by wet rot, due to old age, or moisture within the air system that damages it from the inside. Air ride suspension parts may fail because rubber dries out. Punctures to the air bag may be caused from debris on the road. With custom applications, improper installation may cause the air bags to rub against the vehicle's frame or other surrounding parts, damaging it. The over extension of an air spring which is not sufficiently constrained by other suspension components such as a shock absorber may also lead to the premature failure of an air spring through the tearing of the flexible layers.

Air line failure is a failure of the tubing which connects the air bags or struts to the rest of the air system, and is typically DOT-approved nylon air brake line. This usually occurs when the air lines, which must be routed to the air bags through the chassis of the vehicle, rub against a sharp edge of a chassis member or a moving suspension component, causing a hole to be formed. This mode of failure will typically take some time to occur after the initial installation of the system as the integrity of a section of air line is compromised to the point of failure due to the rubbing and resultant abrasion of the material. An air line failure may also occur if a piece of road debris hits an air line and punctures or tears it.

Compressor failure is primarily due to leaking air springs or air struts. The compressor will burn out trying to maintain the correct air pressure in a leaking air system. Compressor burnout may also be caused by moisture from within the air system coming into contact with its electronic parts.

In Dryer failure the dryer, which functions to remove moisture from the air system, eventually becomes saturated and unable to perform that function. This causes moisture to build up in the system and can result in damaged air springs and/or a burned out compressor.

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This entry was posted on Wednesday, May 28th, 2008 at 2:09 am and is filed under Hammers Pullers Extractors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.