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People who do not have a driver's license envy those who have and could drive around any time they want to. But even those who do not have a driver's license may drive too! It is easy to construct a go cart which can be driven around one's backyard. Here are the steps and tips on how to build a go cart.

The materials needed to build a go cart include a petrol tank, an engine, a go pedal, a break pedal, a bar stock measuring 6 feet x ½ inch, a round steel barstock measuring 6 feet x ¾ inch, a square tubing measuring 30 feet x 1 inch, a steering shaft, bearings, a drive shaft, bolts, a chain for the sprocket, a gear and a handbreak, a motor, a steering wheel, wheels, seat, metal, and welder.

Before we start on how to build a go cart, let's offer some tips first such as the importance of hiring a welder if we are not very knowledgeable on how to weld. Second, it must be remembered that the size of the go cart depends on the age of the user. A go cart measuring 30 inches wide x 50 inches long is suitable for young go cart drivers, whereas a go cart measuring 40 inches wide x 72 inches long is suitable for adults. Another very good tip is that some of the materials needed to make a go cart may be obtained from a junk go cart or an old lawnmower.

The first step on how to build a go cart is for the metal tubing to be cut in accordance with the owner's design. The cut pieces of the metal tubing should then be welded. One tip is to make use of gussets at the corners in order to ensure increased strength.

The next step on how to build a go cart is the need for the steering linkage to be assembled. The steel rod measuring ½ inch must be used for linkages while the steel rod measuring ¾ inch must be used for axles. Bends of up to 90 degrees need to be done, therefore it is important to heat the steel with the use of a torch. It must be remembered that steering is important therefore constructing this part of the go cart should be done with utmost care.

The next step on how to build a go cart is to use a straight steel rod measuring ¾ inch to build the rear axle. The drive pulley must be attached to the axle before the latter is mounted in the bushings.

A flat piece of steel plate measuring 3/16 inches must then be welded to the rear frame. This is necessary in mounting the engine. The throttle cable must then be attached to the hand throttle.

The last step on how to build a go cart is to use metal or plywood lumber to construct the floor boards as well as the seat of the go cart.

Please click these links if you want to know more about how to build a go cart or how to build a go cart in general.

Increase Racing Speed With Pulleys

You maybe have heard of an old trick in the world of automotive performance that uses special pulleys to somehow pick up more horsepower from an otherwise stock motor. This might seem a little too good to be true, but believe it or not, it actually it is a proven technique that you could apply to your engine in order to increase performance.

How does it work? Well, keep in mind that your engine is providing power to more than just the wheels of your car. For example, the alternator, the air conditioning compressor, and the power steering pump are all connected to the engine through a belt and pulley system. Each of those accessories has a small pulley that gets rotated by your serpentine belt that big belt located at the front of the engine. These pulleys take a small amount of horsepower from the engine in order to keep turning and working while you are driving. This is known as parasitic drag.

Now, normally this is not an issue. After all, the amount of energy it takes to turn two or three small pulleys is in the 5 to 7 horsepower range. No big deal, right? Well, when you are trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of your engine, you should grab whatever you can. If this horsepower is there for the taking, why not take advantage?

The way to eliminate a substantial portion of this parasitic drag is to install special pulleys that take less energy to turn yet are still capable of running your accessories. These are called underdrive pulleys. The most obvious difference between an underdrive pulley and a standard pulley is that it has a smaller diameter. This makes it so that the pulley does not turn as fast as the stock pulley, meaning that less energy is used in the motion. More importantly, these pulleys are also much lighter than a stock pulley, and the reduced mass makes them far easier to rotate. It is this last feature which gives you the biggest performance gains. Usually you can access about 3 to 5 free horsepower with these devices.

I know what you are thinking if the pulleys are not spinning as fast as they used to, doesnt this mean that my accessories are not going to get the power that they need to work properly? Yes and no. It is usually safe to underdrive your accessories by about 20 percent. If you go below this point, you might start to notice issues like an alternator which does not generate enough electricity to keep the engine running, or a power steering pump that you have to fight against in order to turn the wheels.

These issues, when they appear, usually occur only at idle. This is why the 20 percent limit is recommended on a street car. If you are running primarily on the track, where you will see wide open throttle most of the time, then you can take the chance of running a more aggressive set of pulleys that will reduce parasitic drag by a greater amount.

About the Author

Justina Mathews writes issues that currently affect the performance car enthusiast. She also writes about issues that affect the street tuner industry, as well as import scene lifestyle. She's a staff writer for underdrive pulleys.

Grinding noise in front end of 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/ Quadra Drive?

When turning left or at approximately 50 mph there is a grinding/rubbing noise coming from the front end on the drivers side. I tried changing the drivers side front tire as I thought it may be a shilfted belt and I changed the serpentine belt to see if that was causing it. No luck. I checked the transmission fluid and it seems like it's overfilled. I was also told maybe the idler pulley was causing it and it should be replaced. It only has 35,000 miles on it. Any advice would be appreciated.

The brakes are a year old and working perfectly with no pulse when they are applied. Alignment is fine too with no shaking in the steering wheel at any speed.

THis could be a wheel bearing, or a CV joint that is bad. It is unlikely to be in the differential if it only does it turning left under 50mph.

1988 Volkswagen Cabrio Cabriolet Coupe from North America - Comments
I always had a problem with the clutch cable. I suppose Volkswagen had a faulty design there; the cable used to rip apart after time (months) when rubbing the metal sheet which divides the engine compartment with the inside of the car (My mechanic just fixed this by soldering a special metal piece).

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This entry was posted on Monday, October 12th, 2009 at 11:26 pm and is filed under Hammers Pullers Extractors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.