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Today there are many styles of collars to choose from. Choosing a style depends on the size and personality of your dog, and the expectation that you have for training your dog. For most breeds of dogs, a traditional nylon or leather dog collar will be more than enough. There can be specific situations that require a specialized collar and those types and styles are described below.

Standard Dog Collars - Standard (traditional) dog collars come in many styles, colors, widths, and lengths. The collar should sit high on your pet's neck. Your dog should not have a collar that is too loose and will slide down to the dog's shoulders. You should be easily able to fit two fingers under the collar, but the collar should not be too loose so that it can slide over your dog's head. This is mainly for various safety reasons. Your dog should never have a collar that is tight enough to cause it to choke or cough or restrict breathing. Puppies should have the fit of their collar checked regularly as they grow very quickly and a collar may soon become too small. Full grown dogs do have this problem unless they experience rapid weight gain.

The general rule of thumb is to measure your dog's neck where the collar should go with a soft tape measure and then add two to three inches. Also you follow the basic rule of choosing a collar that matches the size of your dog. You wouldn't normally put a two inch wide collar on a Lhasa Apso or 3/8 inch wide collar on a Rottweiler.

Halter-type Collars - This type of collar will give you the best control over your dog in most situations. The best control of a dog comes when you have control of its head. The halter-type collar fits over the dogs head so it is the best choice for control. Halter-type collars strongly resemble the same type of halter that a horse would wear, with a band going around the back of the head, and another around the snout. The leash fastens to the collar under the dog's chin. Pulling on the leash causes the dog's head to either be pulled down or to the side and this makes it almost impossible for the dog to pull you forward or move ahead. Halti is probably the best know manufacturer of this type of collar, but there are many others available including Gentle Leader.

Dog Harnesses - For dogs that have problems breathing or problems with their throat should be controlled by using a harness style collar. Harnesses go around the neck and around the shoulders behind the front legs. If a dog with a neck worn collar pulls on the leash, it places pressure on the throat and neck which can cause discomfort, coughing or potentially worsening an existing injury. Harnesses prevent that type of pressure.

Pronged Collars - Pronged Collars are also referred to as pinch collars. They have blunt prongs that stick inward to the dog's neck from the links of the collar. These are mainly designed for only the most stubborn 'leash pullers'. Typically they are used as a temporary training tool made to change the behavior on dogs that do not respond to any other type of collar.

Choke Collars - Choke collars can also be referred to as Chain-slip collars or Choke Chains. They provide effective training and correction when used properly. They should only be used on appropriate dogs. Most often this style of collar is used on dogs that are stubborn and tend to pull when on a leash. Dogs that don't usually respond to training when wearing traditional collars are also good candidates for the Choke collar.

The Choke collar doe not actually choke the dog, but rather when used correctly it presses on a muscle in the dog's neck that is similar to a human 'funny bone' so it quickly gets the dogs attention.

For correct sizing, measure your pet's neck with a soft tape measure and then add two to three inches to get the proper length required. Also, there is a correct and incorrect way to put a choke collar on a dog. If it forms the number 9, it is on backward and may not release right away as it is supposed to, which may cause the dog discomfort, injury or gagging. To properly place a choke collar on a dog, the top ring forms a letter P when you stand in front of the dog and pull it.

You should have someone who is very familiar with the proper use of a Choke collar show you how to use it the right way. The correct way to use one involves a quick 'snap'(tug-and-release) action (as opposed to pulling and not letting up) that tells the dog you want a different behavior. These collars should only be worn during training sessions and never in a crate or pen as they may get caught on the enclosure and choke the dog. They should also be avoided in pets with delicate throats, such as Yorkshire Terriers.

Whatever choice you make for you dog, you must consider your training needs and ultimately the safety of your dog.

The original version of this article can found at http://dog-e-direct.com/dog/articles.aspx

Having worked with dogs for over 30 years, I understand the proper ways to train dogs and the things that dog owners require. For a great source of dog products including collars and training guides, visit Dog-e-Direct [http://dog-e-direct.com]

TOOLS YOU NEED TO BUILD A WOODEN GARDEN SHED

Many homeowners feel like they cannot build their own wooden garden sheds because they do not  have the tools necessary to construct the shed. This should not be a determining factor because it does not take that many tools to build your wooden garden shed. If you want to built it quicker and with less effort there are some tools that would help out but they are not a requirement.

Let’s take a quick look at what we will need to build a great wooden garden shed.

TAPE MEASURE – A standard 20’ tape measure will fulfill all the measuring tools you will need to build wooden garden sheds. The garden shed will most likely be 8’ x 10’ or 10’ x 12’ so a 20’ foot tape measure will be good enough. Even for the roof rafters the 20’ tape will work because no rafter will be longer than 20”.

HAMMERS – A simple hammer will work just fine. You can nail the siding, the flooring, the roof decking, trim and shingles on with a simple hammer. It is advantageous to have a shingle hammer for the installation of asphalt shingles but you can get the job done with a regular hammer. If you are using timbers for the supports of the wooden garden shed a larger mini sledge type hammer is very handy and makes driving spikes into the timbers easier. However, if you are using connector type plates with nail holes for fasteners then a regular hammer is just fine.

SAWS – A simple hand saw will work for everything you need to cut. Because you will need to cut 4’ sheets of plywood for the flooring, roof decking material, and possibly the siding an electric skill saw is very handy. You can cut a 4’ wide sheet of plywood with a handsaw but it is a chore. If you have an electric skill saw you will want a regular blade and a plywood blade to make the job go smoother.

DRILLS – An electric drill is going to be necessary. Yes, you could use a screwdriver but I don’t think your wrist will take the wear and tear while you get the job done. I once had a friend that did serious damage to the ligaments and muscles in his arm when he installed a set of cabinets with a hand screwdriver. Do yourself a favor and get an electric drill which will hold a screwdriver bit.  

LEVELS – A level is a must. You must make sure your floor is level before you start building the wooden garden shed and you must make sure that the walls and door and window openings are plumb. Also as you install the doors and windows you will need to make sure they are plumb. I do recommend that you buy a 4’ level to make your checks more accurate. Yes , you can use a smaller level but you will not be near as accurate as when you use a 4’ level to get the job done. If you don’t have a level long enough to check for plumb you can use a plumb bob.

STRING LINE AND CHALK LINE – A 100’ string line is very handy as it can be used for checking several lines at once. Simply tie the line off on a nail, reel out a little more string and set up another line with the balance on the roll. These are inexpensive so get one and use it. Also get a chalk box and chalk. Snapping a line you need to cut is very handy and a more accurate way to make a cut especially if it is an angle. You can also snap a line on the floor so you know where to nail or screw the flooring material into the floor joists. This is also true for keeping a straight line for the roof decking and the shingles.

RAKES AND SHOVELS  - If you are using a gravel base or just sitting timbers on the ground then you will need a rake and shovel in order to be able to get the support timbers level.  If you are putting support posts into the ground then a post hole digger can be helpful.

A razor knife will be handy to cut shingles, a chalking gun will be handy to install glue and chalk, and prybar/nail puller can also be very useful.

If you don’t have the above listed tools you can most likely borrow the ones you don’t have from a friend, neighbor, or family member. The costs of the foregoing tools should not be a major cost as you probably already have most of them in your garage.

About the Author

For more information on building your own wooden garden sheds go to http://www.wooden-garden-sheds.info today and get that storage/garden shed built.

Any seasoned ford techs online???

Hello just bought a 1997 ford areostar power steering pump is squealing. When I apply lube to the pully center it stops. Is the pully easily removed from the pump? i have access to a press. It appears to be a pressed fit, can I use any old puller to remove it or do I need to see the Snap-ON man again. lol . anyway bottom line do i need a special tool or can it be pursuaded? also will I need to order any bushings or seals if i plan to replace just the pully? any profesional input would be greatly appreciated. Oh and the tranny fluid is way overfull is this a cover up for a faulty tranny?? steering wheel faces to the left and feels very loose and sloppy

I would re-diagnose your problem, power steering pump pulleys dont squeak. I suppose if you want to change it you'd need a puller but I would probably replace the belt first and your squeak will be gone.

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 at 3:09 am and is filed under Tool Sets. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.