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Screwdriver Standard Length
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The bridge is a part found on an acoustic guitar, the purpose of which is to act as a way of transferring the vibrations from the strings as they are plucked or strummed, to the soundboard itself. The soundboard then vibrates the air that is inside the hollow body of an acoustic guitar, and this vibration of the air causes a natural amplification of the sound caused by the plucking of the strings. Just as singing in a bathroom causes a louder and more resonant sound than when you sing in your garden, using this smaller, natural pocket of air behind the soundboard causes the increase in both volume and tone of the sounds and notes played.

Of course, the bridge is to be found on electric guitars as well as acoustic and classical ones, although for electric guitars the amplification is not achieved through the use of the pocket of air, as the body of an electric guitar is solid, with no resonating chamber. But the bridge is still used to hold the strings in place on the actual body of the guitar. The bridge of a guitar is therefore an essential component, and as with all components of a guitar, has not only undergone many variations in design over the long history of the instrument, but remains a component with many variations today. For example, in some guitars there is a mechanism included which allows the physical raising or lowering of the entire bridge.

This raising and lowering of the bridge results in an increase in distance between the strings of the guitar and the fret board underneath. The increased distance means that different playing styles can be adopted, with the ability to strike the strings made easier by a greater distance between strings and board, whilst a closer distance means that the strings are closer to the sound board, and a more heavy and amplified sound is produced. The raising and lowering of the bridge can also be used as a way of fine tuning the sound or intonation of the instrument as well. There are some bridges produced which are spring loaded, and include a device known as a whammy bar. This whammy bar is an arm, usually removable, that allows the player to alter the pitch, or modulate it, by moving the entire bridge up and down during the playing of a note of chord.

The whammy bar is also referred to sometimes as a tremolo bar, and the very rapid changing in pitch of the notes or chord is usually referred to as the vibrato method in terms of music. Today, most electric guitars come with a bridge that can be fine tuned for each individual string, in order to make sure that each string remains in tune both up and down the neck of the guitar. If an individual string plays either sharp or flat when struck, then, in some cases using a screwdriver, the bridge can be adjusted for that one string alone, to bring it back into correct tune.

Because each individual string on a guitar is stretched a great deal, and is constantly being pressed, and thereby slightly stretched or distorted during playing, over time strings can become slightly longer. Although not clearly noticeable, this can result in a string sounding slightly sharp, and so by adjusting the height of the bridge for that string, it can be flattened enough to retune it. It is for this reason that the length of strings on a guitar are clearly longer than the length of the guitar itself, to allow for the adjustment of each string both individually and in relation to each other.

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for electric guitars, whammy bars and tremolo arms. You can find the best marketplace at these sites for electric guitars, whammy, sheet music, guitar.

How to Replace your Dirty Air Filter

Changing your air filter should be a familiar and comfortable process; if it’s not, you’ve come to the right place. It’s inexpensive, easy and can play a big role in vehicle performance. You are probably wondering, “But how will I know when to change the filter? I’m no mechanic!” Well bewildered reader, a good rule of thumb is once or twice a year, or roughly every 12,000 miles. But keep in mind that your environment can affect this. Obviously daily dirt road driving will require you to replace your filter more often than Sunday driving in the city.

If nothing else, learn to change your own air filter. It’s so easy and saves you money.

Can you remember your last visit to Jiffy Lube for an oil change? These guys always hit you up with the patented, “You really need a new air filter” line. And you’re left wondering, “Do I really need a new one? What should I do? Can I really trust this guy?” If in your shock, you utter “Ok,” the mechanic then adds another set of fees for labor, parts, and a new air filter, whose brand is usually a mystery.

Now you can stick it to the man and simply say, “No thanks, I will do it myself.” That is if, in fact, it really needs to be done.

It’s time to get down and dirty. Park your car in a shaded area and let it cool for a few minutes—you don’t want to be working with a steaming engine that can potentially burn you; i.e. don’t change your filter after a six hour road trip.

You will need very few tools for this procedure. If possible grab two medium-sized screwdrivers, one Philips and one standard.

The air filter is typically enclosed in a black plastic casing near the top of the engine. In larger vehicles, it may be off to the side. It is usually the largest non-metal assembly you see; approximately the size of a bread box.

Most air boxes are held together by a couple of large metal clips on the side. Either pop off the clips or slide the flat-head screwdriver between the casing and the clip and pry the clip off. Occasionally you will find the top is held down by several long screws, in which case you simply unscrew them to access the filter.

Pop the air box top off and expose the secrets of the all mighty air box. Basically, you will find the air filter—riveting, I know. It’s usually bright yellow or orange or red, to better see collected dirt.

Pull it out. It’s typically one foot by six inches and has rubber edges along the bottom.

To check for cleanliness, hold it up and bend it back, so the paper ridges of the filter flutter like pages in a book. Now look in the crevices and look at all the dirt and grime it stopped from entering your engine. Pretty cool, huh? Hold the filter at arms length and look at it straight on. If the colored paper is mostly dirty in the center than it is time to replace it. Guess how much this will cost you-- About $5; a lot less than Jiffy Lube.

You can throw the old filter in a plastic bag and bring it to your local auto part store to make sure you get the right replacement. Or you can save time by ordering a new one online. You can now stand proud and confidently say, “I know how to check and replace my air filter.” And damn it feels good.

About the Author

From K&N to Volant filters, you really can’t go wrong with any name brand air filter. You may also want to consider upgrading to a Volant cold air intake for added sound and performance. –Mike Rosania

How to Build a DIY Wooden Hard Drive Enclosure [DIY]
# diy Lifehacker reader Mike Osborne likes his tech to look better than your average black piece of plastic. This beautiful DIY wooden hard drive enclosure is the result. More »

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This entry was posted on Sunday, December 28th, 2008 at 6:00 am and is filed under Screwdrivers And Pliers. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.