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Waterwheel can be used as a supporting device for your generator. As we know that generator changes the mechanical energy to electrical energy. The waterwheel helps you to provide mechanical energy for your generator.

These are some component that you need to prepare:

-50 cm PCV pipe 2 inches
-A stalk of bolt 4 mm (length 1 m) + 12 nuts.
-Iron plate (thickness 0.9-1 mm) measured 19 × 19 cm.
-2 pieces bearing, number 608ZZ
-2 wide board length 22 cm wide (usually) 19.5 cm
-A stalk of bolt 6 mm (length 1 m) + 10 nuts for the axle.
-Drill fan 10 mm and 21 mm. Drill steel 4 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm (or buy one set of them, it is much cheaper).
-½ kg of resin and 1 ons of fiberglass catalysts
-A little thin aluminum

Making the turbine:

1. Form the iron plate into a round shape you can also make it octagon shape make it into 20 angles. Measure it 5 cm from the center point. Mark in each 90 degrees then drill it with 6 mm drill. Then, drill the center point with 8 mm drill.

2. Cut 4 mm rod bolts (key 10) into 4 pieces. Cut also 6 mm bolt bar (key 12) for 40 cm.

3. Divide the PCV pipe into 4 parts lengthwise. You can measure the pipe using HVS paper. Wrap the pipe with the paper (same length with the pipe) then divide the paper into 4. Then, wrap again the pipe and mark the length of the paper on the pipe. Cut 10 cm pipe into 5 pieces then cut each pieces into 4 so you will get 20 pieces of pipe.

4. Tide the 4 mm bolt and nuts in and outside on the every hole. Measure each bolt for the same height. You would better not to tide the bolt so that you can set the PCV easily.

5. Tide the 6 mm bolt, measure the rear exit should be 5 cm, the remaining is forwarded, tide it with nut inside out.

6. Make sure you have 4 hollow when you assemble it. Those hollows will be used to take in the resin. You should cover inside of the PCV with mixed resin and catalyst except the bolt and nut.

7. After all the PCV is mounted coated and dried, remove all 4 mm screws from the plate. Cut the aluminum for about 6 mm as wide as the bearings. Wrap it to the bolts; put the bearings inside, press by the nut till it is fixed. Do this for both bearings. This will make the bearings attached tightly to the bolt (Axle).

Making the house

Cut the board into two equal sizes (@ 19.5 x 22 cm). Point the center out then divide each board into 4 parts. Combine these two boards; drill the corner of each as a guide with 6 mm drills. Drill the center point with 4 mm drill. Separate the board. Drill each of the boards' center with 21 mm fan board within 5 mm. you should also drill the center point with 10 mm fan drill. Combine all of them using 4 mm rod bolts. Make sure that the turbine rotates freely. You can cover it with aluminum plate or fiber.

This article shows you the way to make a waterwheel. The website below will show you about signal generator. Check this website www.rfsignalgenerator.org. This website will also give you more information about used signal generator.

My Air Conditioner Does Not Cool My House

 

If your air conditioning systems seems like it does not cool your home, this article may help you access the problem. If your air conditioner is broken and won't turn on, this article is not going to help and you'll have to read on of my other articles on the subject of air conditioning repairs.

First things first.

ARE THE COILS CLEAN?

We will assume that your air conditioner was sized properly for your home, that it was properly selected based on the area you live in, the average mean temperature of your area, the average humidity in your area and the rest of the calculations used to determine the proper heat load of your home. If your system was undersized, there may not be much you can do about it, but if it was correctly sized and now seems as though it won't cool we can proceed.

The first thing you have to be absolutely sure of is that the indoor and out door coils are clean. Make sure that the condenser coil is clean, turn off the power and physically look at the coils, if theres any dirt at all on the coil, you can either wash them off your self or you can have them cleaned by a professional. I'm not going to tell you how to wash the coils in this article, only that its important that they are clean. If the out door coils are dirty, then the air conditioner can't get rid of the heat it picks up from inside the house.

The evaporator coil must be clean also, this coil is much trickier to clean than the out door coil, and it really should be done by a professional. A good indication if the evaporator coil is dirty, is to look at the blower wheel, and blower motor inside the furnace, if you see dust caked all over the motor, chances are that the evaporator coil is dirty. You must be sure both the indoor and the out door coils are clean.

IS THE FILTER DIRTY?

Don't even guess about the air filter, take it out and change it. I don't want it even a little dirty.

Does the air conditioner stay running, or does it shut down.

If your room temperature is 80 degrees and you set your thermostat to 74 degrees, the air conditioner should come on and stay running until it meets temperature. If the outside unit, or the indoor fan shut down at all before the system meets temperature, then you have a problem that needs immediate attention. So make sure the unit continues to run the entire time its in a call for cool.

DOES THE OUT DOOR FAN STOP RUNNING?

If you put the t-stat in a call for cool, and the out door unit starts running, its important to make sure that the out door fan continues to run the whole time, while the compressor is running. If the fan stops running and the compressor runs by it self, your going to have major issues. If someone did a repair to your air conditioner due to a failed fan motor, with out testing to ensure the compressor valves are still good, the compressor may have been damaged by over heating and over pressure, you would need a professional to diagnose this.

If some one did do a fan motor replacement on the out door unit, it's vital that they installed the correct size fan motor. Its horse power and RPM must be the same as the one called for on the name plate. Because the pitch or angle on the fan blade was specifically designed to move a set amount of air given the rated motor specifications. Turn off the power and look through the grill at the motor, if you can see the sticker on the motor, compare the ratings to the sticker on the side of the unit.

IF the motor has been replaced, you might be able to look down in between the grill and see the wiring. If its a replacement motor you may see wire nuts connecting the motor to the wiring harness on the unit. If you see zip ties or tape on the wiring on the fan motor, these would be good indicators that the motor has been replaced. If its been replaced you have to remember that the compressor may have been damaged when it ran with out the fan motor. You would need a professional to come out and test the compressor valves. If you do see the wire nuts and tape, and you do suspect that the compressor if bad its time to make a major decision as to the most effective way to use your money at this point. More about that at the end of the article.

DOES THE UNIT HAVE ENOUGH FREON?

While you as a consumer probably don't have the tools to check the freon level in your unit, you can get a good feel for the units charge, by using a thermometer. If you have a digital thermometer, you can turn the thermostat to cool, turn the temperature all the way down and let it run for about 15 minutes, after at least 15 minutes, take your thermometer and measure the air temperature going into the return air grill inside the house and then measure the temperature coming out of the supply air diffuser, basically this is measuring the air in vs the air out. I would look for at least 18-22 degrees difference. It should be 18-22 degrees cooler coming out than going in.

Next go to the out door unit while its running, measure the out side temperature within five feet of the unit. Then measure the temperature of the air that the fan is blowing out of the top of unit out side, look for a difference of between 20-30 degrees between whats going into the unit and whats coming out of the unit. If your two temperatures differences are not between these ranges, you have a problem that needs addressing, call a professional and have them assess the units charge. It may be over charged or under charged.

Next take your thermometer and measure the temperature of the copper pipe that has the black foam insulation on it. On a real hot day, the line should be pretty cold, and it may even sweat with small water droplets on it. Make sure you measure the temperature under the foam so that the thermometer is not affected by the out door temperature. Depending on the out door and indoor temperatures and humidity levels I would expect the temperatures to be somewhere in the low 40's to low 50's Fahrenheit

DOES THE FURNACE OPERATE WHILE THE AIR CONDITIONER IS ON.

 It is possible that the main burners on the furnace are operating while the unit is calling for cooling. If your house was painted and they installed the thermostat wiring incorrectly, or if theres a short in the electrical wiring, the burners could be coming on in a call for cool. Make sure that there is no burner flame when the unit is calling for cooling. If there is, you need a professional to diagnose the problem! Try turning the gas shut off to the off position, while you're waiting for a technician.

DOES THE AIR CONDITIONER MAKE WATER WHEN IT RUNS

The air conditioner should be making at least a dribble of water when it runs, if theres no water coming out of the condensation drain line (the white plastic pipe that comes off the indoor coil) then you probably have a problem that needs addressing. The white drain line should go outside the home some where and drain, to the outside. Find the end of the pipe and check it for water dripping. If no water—its time to call a professional and have them check the charge.

 IS THE RETURN AIR DUCT CONNECTED

Make sure that the duct work in the attic, or sub floor is connected properly and that your system is not drawing in SUPER HOT attic air in the summer—THIS WOULD MAKE YOUR AIR CONDITIONER UNDERPREFORM. We just did a repair on a system where the ductwork was broken in the attic and the unit was taking in air that was 2.5 times higher than the room temperature. It could not keep up with the heat load.

If any of the problems or conditions that I described above happen to your unit, you're going to need a service technician to come out and check out your system. Basically the only real thing you as a home owner can do, is change the filter and wash the outside coil. You can take measurements but what to do with eh results will be the issue. If you need extensive repairs to your old air conditioner that uses R-22, its time to realize that the time has come when it makes more sense to replace and upgrade to 410A and its just that simple. Any significant repairs to an older R-22 system are at best A WASTE OF YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY at this point.

 

Good Luck

 

John

About the Author

John Grisler has been in the air conditioning and heating industry since February 1986. His training at Universal Technical Institute in Phoeniz, AZ has been the foundation of his career. He has been a service technican and installer of residential and commercial heating, cooling and refrigeration equipment through out the last 23.5 years. His business focuses on residential and commericial high efficiency equipment installations and repairs in California. John received a Patent on a refrigeration system in 2006.  You can contact John at his website http://www.grislerairconditioning.com/

email grislerac@att.net

 

 

Does anyone know anything on the Roche SP Painting Compressor?

I recieved an old compressor from a friend, and it was filthy so I cleaned the 20 layers of grease off the the compressor. it is basicly a metal play with a 120 volt motor belt driven to a piston head set up. Anyway. There was a little plate that had information that was fastend to the compressor, The plate reads Roche SP Painting Unit, Type No: SP-1/4 E, Serial # 7434, and the Tag also says it was made in Binks MFG Co. just let me kno if anyone has any type of info on this.

contact Binks with this info. if anyone can help you it would be them

Driven: 2010 Chevrolet Equinox
GM has finally stepped up to the plate with the 2010 Chevy Equinox.

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 at 2:16 am and is filed under Hammers Pullers Extractors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.