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Suspension Set-up: The basics

Whether you are a road rider or a racer correct suspension setup is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To get the best out of your bike it needs to be set up for the conditions in which you will be riding. It is considerably easier to set the bike up for the Track as you know what conditions will be like for the next hour or so and thus you can dial in the optimum settings for the that particular situation.

To what extent you change your suspension settings will depend on whether your bike will also have to cope with riding on the road. Unlike Roads Tracks are generally smooth and grippy. So if you are only going to use the bike on the track you have the luxury of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and shock internals. If you ride on the road as well as the track you will probably want to keep a certain comfort level and concentrate on just optimizing the current equipment

With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, which in turn can result in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can be compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the track.

Firstly you will need to check the Fork and Shock sag: this is the amount the forks and rear shock settle under load. To measure it do the following: push down on the forks a number of times to settle them, then mark the stanchion with a felt pen or put a cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask some for help to lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the ground and measure the amount the forks have traveled down. This is the static sag (or unladen sag), This can be changed by adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same process for the rear, this time measuring the distance from the wheel spindle to a fixed point on the tail. Now you are ready to begin setting up your suspension. The key is to do it a little at a time and make notes as you go. For road riding start with the wet track settings and work from there.

Basic Setup: Check the following

Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm for rain.

Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.

Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear will be increased.

Proper tire balance and pressure, starting with 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and wet).

Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too loose, there will be head shake at high speeds.

Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer.

Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.

Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations

Manufacturers plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, they use valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.

Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.

Remember!

o Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.

o Always keep notes of what you have done.

o Suspension tuning is an art - be patient

Mark Thompson has spent the last 20 Years Racing motorcycles and managing Race Teams. He now runs the Trackbikes website.

Should You Buy a Scooter Or Moped to Save Money?

With so many scooters and mopeds zooming by the streets these days it's easy to see how many people are coping with high gas prices. It seems these high prices for travel are here to stay, but rather than stay at home, many are resorting to cruising the town in the scooter of their choice.

With so many options to consider, you should weigh the decision to buy a scooter or moped before making the purchase.

Whereas buying a scooter used to seem like a far-fetched idea, or at least one that was only thought of by younger, more immature minds, the idea of owning that sleek and stylish moped or scooter is becoming more sane.

Perhaps it's the insanity of gas prices that brings us to make justifications in our minds, or maybe just the thought of doing anything we can to save an extra buck, but either way, scooters are owning the streets like never before.

These gas saving two-wheelers are much quieter than they used to be as well and they look more like motorcycles than skateboards on steroids. Whether it's the fancy gas efficient Vespa or the more sporty Honda or Yamaha moped one desires, it's usually the excuse for saving money on gas that prompts the decision, but the sheer fun of cruising one of these scooters around town is surely the concept that seals the deal.

So what should you look for in a scooter? Well, it mainly depends on your reason for getting one.

If you are in the market just because they look fun and you have the extra money to spare, you may want to check out the Honda or Suzuki scooters out there. With 250cc engines these scooters can exceed speeds of 80mph, which I wouldn't recommend in those little bikes by the way.

If you want to buy a moped just to fit in with those snooty neighbors who have been going green ever since those fluorescent CFL light-bulbs came out, then by all means, look into an electric scooter. Not only is electricity much cheaper than gas, but the technology in electric scooters has improved exponentially over the past few years.

These electric scooters can now exceed speeds of 30mph and ride for over 30 miles before having to plugged in again. With an electric scooter it's one less trip to the gas station you have to make, so there is reprieve there as well. And of course, your neighbors will beam with joy when they see your quiet little humming electric scooter pulling up into your driveway. Honk with pride; you have gone green.

However, if you are like me, the reason you want a scooter is that you are just tired of spending so much money on gas, and ANY relief is welcomed. And yes, the mere satisfaction of having a zippy little moped is nice too.

These gasoline scrooges can put away up to 80 miles before they fork out a gallon of gas. Yes, that's 80 miles to the gallon. Not too shabby, even if you are a little late to work. Which reminds me, you want to give yourself a little more time for wherever you are going.

If you don't want to hassle with registering your scooter or moped then you will want to find a scooter that is under 50cc, because by law anything over that is pretty much treated like a motorcycle would be. To avoid all that nasty paperwork, get a 49cc scooter.

They can be surprisingly quiet compared to the common thoughts about them and have some pep in their step as well. Anything going up to 35 mph is great. After all, the goal is not to go just as fast as before to where ever you are going, it's just to get there cheaper. If you want to buy a cheap moped or scooter try the link below and look around to find just the right one that suits your needs and lifestyle.

About the Author

Paul shows people how to save money on their moped and scooter insurance.

How long will this take to do in a motorcycle shop?

Change the rear tire bearings and seal the forks, i need it done by this weekend?

This could be easily done in a few hours time, but most places do this kind of work on a first come first serve basis, so I guess it would depend on how backed up they are, and how quick then can get to it.

Todd Grice, AMA Diary: First day at the races
What a Friday! Well the track is officially alive with motorcycles, and the day was incredible.

Thanks for visiting!

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This entry was posted on Saturday, November 24th, 2007 at 5:55 am and is filed under Hammers Pullers Extractors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.