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In engineers' terms, fuel efficiency means the thermal capacity of converting the energy contained in the fuel to kinetic energy, or work, needed to move your car. For a vehicle, fuel efficiency means the output one gets for a unit amount of fuel input, such as "miles per gallon" or "litters per 100 kilometers". For you, fuel efficiency simply means less fuel wasted and more money in your pocket.

The automotive industry believed that by maintaining the air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 by electronic means, like electronic fuel injection and electronic ignition systems, they had already achieved the best combustion process that assures the best fuel economy.

Unfortunately this is not always true because is not sufficiently known, but there are a lot of very ordinary daily driving situations that makes than the engine operate steady at low speeds, creating less temperature in the combustion chamber. It makes that the stock spark plugs results operating too cold, which affects the combustion process, because the low temperature do not allows burning completely the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber.

Unburned fuel is wasted fuel and you paid for it. Wasted fuel is wasted money.

These very common driving or traffic conditions are:

o Steady city driving, where prolonged idling or short distances and stop-and-go driving prevails.

o Extended low speed driving, or short distance driving or even in the freeway driving where the automatic transmission maintains the engine under 3000 RPM.

o Low speed cruising.

o At high elevations, above 3000 ft.

o Weather conditions, where the humidity rises.

o Moreover, these conditions may combine in endless ways.

And believe it or not, this situation is not the exception, in fact is almost the rule for more than the 75% of the cars worldwide. You can confirm it simply by seen the exits of the exhaust tips in any parking zone and in anywhere around you. Most of them are covered with dry black soot produced by the unburned fuel. And this is not due to an incorrect air/fuel mixture adjustment in the carburetor or the fuel injection system; even this occurs in a well maintained vehicle which just passed the smog test satisfactorily.

This is because the stock spark plugs are being too cold for those operating conditions, consequently are no longer adequate and must be substituted by spark plugs with a different and hotter heat range.

Why it occurs? Because the heat range of the original stock spark plug was defined by the manufacturers at their laboratories, based on different and theoretical speeds, and trips, that supposedly should be done by the potential target market who conceptually will buy an specific model and type of vehicle. But in the real life, not all the people have the same driving habits nor lives in the same geographical and under the same weather conditions, or drives in the same traffic conditions neither gives the same maintenance to their vehicles.

Do you still have doubts? Think just a minute that the traffic between big cities like LA is very different from a smaller city and from a town. A teenager drives different from his mother and she drives different to her husband, whom drives different to his neighbors, whom tows a trailer. Additionally from Alaska to Dubai, there are hundreds of different weathers, altitudes, and humidity's; and there are many different fuel brands and qualities, among other different conditions.

So it is absolutely necessary to refining and tailoring the selection of the spark plugs for matching the real operating conditions of the engine to each individual driving habit and or each particular operating condition.

As you can see, it is more likely that you are having Heat Range problems that are affecting your mileage, even if you didn't know they existed, and you are wasting more in fuel than necessary.

To achieve the best fuel economy in these extremely frequent but seldom considered driving conditions, you must install different and hotter spark plugs than the original stock, suggested by the manufacturers in their application catalogs in order to achieve the right combustion chamber temperature that ensures the perfect combustion process.

But to define which exactly is the sparkplug, whose heat range results being the best adequate for your engine, is a risky puzzle and not an easy task.

Nevertheless, only by tailoring the selection of the park plug's heat range, customizing it to your particular conditions, you will achieve your engine's top efficiency, thus guaranteeing the best fuel economy, whit the best performance, power, reliability and low emissions.

Is it hard to believe?

You don't have to take my words. Spark plug manufacturers have never failed to explicitly acknowledge that:

"A hotter spark plug may be better for prolonged idling or city type stop and go traffic".

AC DELCO Spark Plugs

"A hotter plug is better for prolonged idling and city travel".

BOSCH Spark Plugs

"Use spark plugs with a hotter heat range for steady city driving".

SPLITFIRE Spark Plugs

"For short distances and stop-and-go driving a hotter plug is better".

DENSO Spark Plugs

"The spark plug heat range should remain the same unless also at high elevations, (above 3000 ft), in which changing to a hotter plug may be necessary".

CHAMPION Spark Plugs.

"This is reflected in the increased importance assigned to precisely adapting the spark plug to engine. Customized solutions are the order of the day".

BOSCH Sparkplugs

Elena Maria DB Orsos
http://www.determinator.net
Master of the Power, the Mileage and the Emissions
Would you like to learn more? visit my web site at the above link.

How to Troubleshoot a Failing Fuel Pump

If your vehicle uses a fuel injection system, a fuel pump (FP) is needed to send gasoline from the gas tank to the injectors. It also needs to apply the right amount of pressure in order for your engine to operate efficiently. An insufficient amount of pressure results in too little fuel in the combustion chamber. That leads to a lean mix, which can cause misfires and stalls. Too much pressure, on the other hand, will waste gasoline, generate pollution, and cause your engine to run rough.

The FP is responsible for two jobs. First, as mentioned, it must deliver fuel under pressure, and it must do so between a certain range. Second, it must deliver a sufficient volume of gasoline. Like all components, the fuel pump can eventually fail to work properly. This article will provide a few suggestions for troubleshooting and fixing the problem.

When Your Engine Refuses To Start

When the FP dies, it can prevent your engine from starting (even if it cranks). The problem is, there are other factors that can produce the same outcome, including issues in the ignition system and the engine. To narrow down the culprit, use a spark plug tester (you can buy one at most auto supply stores) to test for spark.

If the ignition system is fine, inspect the timing belt; you may need to remove a cover in order to see it. If the belt appears fine, crank the engine to make sure it turns. If it does, that usually means there's sufficient compression.

If you can rule out your vehicle's ignition system and the level of compression, the only other explanation is insufficient fuel. At this point, the goal is to figure out whether the pump is the problem.

A lack of sufficient fuel can be traced to the pump, the fuel filter (which can be clogged), or a pressure-related issue. Pressure can be affected by a blockage somewhere in the fuel line or too little voltage being received by the pump.

Checking The Pump

Have a friend turn the key in the ignition to crank your engine. While he or she is doing so, listen for the fuel pump being engaged (you'll hear a dampened buzzing sound). Normally, when the key is turned, the powertrain control module (PCM) engages the FP for a few seconds to build pressure. If your engine starts, the FP would continue to operate. In the event your engine refuses to start, the PCM would turn the FP off.

If you are unable to hear the pump working for the first few seconds after cranking your engine, the component has likely died; it will need to be replaced. But suppose you can hear a buzzing sound as the part is engaged. That suggests the problem involves a lack of pressure.

How Much Pressure And Volume Is Being Produced?

Checking the level of pressure generated by your car's fuel pump may require several different tests. These include static, residual, running, and dead head pressure tests. Each procedure requires a special gauge, which is used to assess the amount of pressure in various circumstances. For example, a running fuel pressure test is done while the engine is idling. A residual pressure test is performed several minutes after the engine has been turned off.

If the fuel pump is producing a sufficient amount of pressure, it is still possible that it is sending an insufficient volume of gas. For that reason, you may need to do a volume test. This test is performed using a fuel flow gauge that is connected to the fuel line.

If you determine that the FP has indeed failed, you'll need to install a replacement. Doing so can be expensive. The pump may cost nearly $250 and the labor can cost another $150 or more. Avoid cutting corners with this part. Use an OEM-certified replacement to ensure it lasts for years.

About the Author

When looking for used auto parts and used engines consider the leader in parts, Everdrive.com.

'03 Renault Laguna 2 Fuel Injector Trim problem?

Hi,

I have a problem with my car and I need a bit of help diagnosing the problem. It's a 2003, 2.2l Turbo Diesel Renault Laguna II.
When it idles, especially when first starting up it's very 'lumpy' and feels like it is trying to shake itself to bits. Driving is fine, it's only when it's idling.
I took it to Renault who said they could not find any faults through their diagnostic computer, but had a look at the live injection data. I have uploaded a couple of pictures of the CLIP printout here:

Page 1: http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=page1aj0.jpg

Page 2: http://img82.imageshack.us/my.php?image=page2ve1.jpg

Do you agree with the testers diagnosis and solution? Thanks

Possibly an injector is leaking. Ask the garage if they can do a "leak-back" check. (this measures the unused fuel returned from each injector - if one is very different from the other 3 you've found the problem.)
A leaking injector is less noticeable when revs are high.

Fuel Injection Cleaning Kits target professional service shops.
Constructed of steel and die-cast aluminum, Models MV5565 and MV5570 use compressed air to remove and prevent fuel injector deposits, as well as loosen and dissolve carbon on throttle plate and intake manifold and valves. Pressure gauge and adjustable regulator combination ensures proper delivery of cleaning solution. Both can be used with Mityvac Pro Fuel System Tester, however, MV5565 includes ...

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