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Bidets, on the other hand, aren't quite so straightforward. For one thing, the location of drain and supply connections are far more variable on a bidet than on a regular toilet, so that the rough-in has to be done to match the manufacturer's schematic. For some bidets, the drain connection is similar to that of a shower pan; for others, the connection is almost identical to that of a sink. Bidets also require both a hot- and cold-supply connection, like on a sink, and the valve might be located either on the bidet itself or on the wall behind it. For these reasons, it's important to refer specifically to the manufacturer's literature when installing a bidet.

Seating the flange

The first step in any toilet installation is to secure the toilet flange to the closet bend, which was hopefully roughed-in in the right location, and to check that it is adequately supported with framing and secured in place with strapping or stabilizers (galvanized for cast iron, plastic for plastic pipe). The closet-bend pipe stub should be cut flush with the finish floor, making sure that there is room around the perimeter to insert the flange. In some cases, you'll have to chip away tile with a cold chisel or cut out flooring with a reciprocating saw to make sure the flange fits.

Cutting the pipe flush is pretty easy if the drain system is plastic, but it's a little harder if it is cast iron. An internal pipe cutter can easily trim the cast-iron stub to length if it is long, but a right-angle grinder is more likely to be in your collection of tools and will accomplish the same task. Just score around the outside of the pipe until there is a shallow groove, then use a wrench to break off the excess pipe stub. Use the grinder to clean up the edge.

After the pipe is cut flush to the floor, the flange can be attached to the closet bend, with the bolt slots parallel to the back wall. Plastic flanges are simply cemented in place to the plastic drainpipe, then screwed to the floor. Be sure to use galvanized screws to secure the flange to the floor, and predrill tile with big enough holes so that it won't crack as the screws pass into the subfloor. If you are installing a cast-iron system, an instant-set flange is a two-piece clamping alternative to a leaded flange. Though more expensive than a regular flange, its neoprene gasket makes a tight seal between the metal collar and drainpipe that is as effective as a conventional oakum and poured lead connection but is much easier to install.

Nathaly Dedeyan is co-owner of Bathroom Wall, an online resource that covers all aspects of bathroom designs and bathroom design ideas and bathroom furniture. Visitors to Bathroom Wall will be met with invaluable do it yourself guides and historic information with tips about the most cost effective ways of decorating a bathroom.

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This entry was posted on Monday, February 4th, 2008 at 1:29 am and is filed under Hammers Pullers Extractors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.