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Last time we talked about the two areas of the engine that affect rotation: the externals and the internals. For those new to the article series, we are talking about a seized up engine, or an engine that refuses to rotate.

What was not discussed was what are the most likely problem areas on an engine that would cause it to seize up?

First thing I would do is take two parts off the engine so that you can access the most common problem areas:

- The Blower Housing

- The Cylinder Head

(Disassembly Note: Keep all the bolts in the correct alignment and order for the cylinder head. Also take care with the head gasket to keep it in the correct alignment. Think of this as a 3-D puzzle and you are putting the sections of the puzzle aside for reassembly.)

Okay once you have gotten the cylinder head off and the blower housing off you be looking for a couple of things:

-Rusted Flywheel to the magneto

-Rusted cylinder

-Rusted main shaft to the lower bearing.

-Seized up engine due to overheating....

9 times out of 10 it is the flywheel rusted to the magneto. If this is an old engine, you will probably have points. Not to worry, just pop off the flywheel and replace the points (they are available at the local hardware store. Or is you are ambitious, just buy the conversion kit (pretty easy really) and never have to worry about points again!)

A rusted cylinder is pretty serious, but not an impossible task. The nice thing about aluminum cylinder engines is that the aluminum and rust don't bond, so you can actually break free the rusted cylinder. The way to do this is to spray the cylinder with penetrating oil and let sit for 4 to 5 hours. Put the cylinder upright so that gravity is working to pull the penetrating oil into the rusted areas.

Then gently take a piece of wood (very soft preferably pine) and place it on the top of the piston. Tap the top of the piece of wood with a hammer. This generally breaks free the frozen piston. You may discover that NO movement has occurred. There is a slight chance that the piston may be at top dead center. We are assuming it is not. (One FYI... make sure the blower cover, or the cord return mechanism is not connected. This will work against you if the piston wants to go down and force the engine to go backwards!)

The rusted main shaft, is hard to tell if that actually has occured, unless you know some of the history of the engine prior to purchase. Meaning, did the engine sit idle for 3 years outside? Was the oil reservoir full when you opened looked in?

The last question is probably the most important, because it will let you in on a couple of things prior to even BUYING the engine.

If there is not oil, then the question is: what is there in the crankcase? Water? or Nothing?

To tell if there is water, or was water, look for rust colors in the bottom of the oil fill hole. If no oil, then there will be oil residue, with lots of chunks, but not much else. There may be a little oil, but it may have run dry.

If there was water, then you may, have a rusted lower bearing, and perhaps most of the innards (though unlikely) rusted. If that is the case then disassemble the engine, by taking off the outer crank case cover.

If there was little or no oil, check the walls of the cylinder for excessive scoring. When I mean scoring I mean gouges, or scratches, or even marks that resemble melting on the cylinder walls. Gouges and scratches typically will fair okay, but a large melt mark will be trouble and will require honing, and a new oversized piston and new rings. (Just so you know, I have oversized my engines a couple of times and have had minimum success. They end up turning into mosquito abatement machines in short order...!)

You will discover that most engines are not that serious as any of the things I have discussed.

But say it is, then we need to go down each trail...

Bottom line is we do not know what is going on inside the engine, we need to take a sneak peek. The quickest way to find out something is to check the cylinder.... The second is to check the insides...that is a little more involved and will require a whole new article!

And one last FYI: If the engine was mounted to a water pump, then more than likely the engine has a rusted end bearing. If the engine has a rusted end bearing, then the internals of the engine are more than likely rusted.

Water pump engines are usually junk, and are only good for parts such as pistons, valves, carbs.

The Go Kart Guru is a Go Karting Design, Fabrication and Performance specialist. Topics ranging from Turbo Charged Go Karts to Wood Go Karts, the Go Kart Guru has something to say (that will help you!) about it. Visit http://GoKartGuru.com for more details.

And for those with Vertical Lawnmower Engines, there is a special section just for you! Don't throw away that vertical engine just yet!

Training With A Sparring Partner Punching Bag

It isn't always possible to have another person available for sparring whenever you are ready to work out. That is one of the reason sparring bags are necessary. But sometimes, even if another person is available, training can be better done on the bag.

Sparring partner punching bag training lets you focus on delivering your blows and honing your technique without the distraction of being on the defense from blows of a sparring partner.

Sparring partner punching bags come in several different styles and are made of varying material. Traditionally, heavy bags weighing around 100 pounds were hung from the ceiling for punching and kicking. The older the bags became, the harder they would get until it became almost like punching a rock.

Today, sparring partner punching bags are made with inflatable chambers or have inner cores filled with water. They can be in the traditional cylinder shape or be shaped like a person complete with arms and legs. The punching bags can hang from the ceiling, or rise up from the floor.

Which style to choose is a matter of personal preference combined with the purpose of the bag. In some instances it might be better to have a sparring partner punching bag that rises up from the floor and better simulates an actual person.

Whatever style you choose, the end result is the same, if helps you to train your punches and kicks. Of course, hitting a sparring partner punching bag isn't exactly like the real thing since the bag doesn't hit back, and it has limited movement. The old style punching bags in particular will barely move when kicked or punched.

The sparring partner punching bags do make excellent training tools for developing your kicking and punching skills in martial arts and boxing. It helps you to build endurance and develop powerful punches.

Striking the heavy bag serves to develop gross motor skills upon which other sparring techniques are built. In addition, the body's reaction to the punch impact can strengthen muscular structure, toughen up your joints, and increase bone density.

There are a few precautions one needs to take when working with a sparring partner punching bag because injuries can occur and sometimes the injury in nonreversible and becomes a chronic condition. These injuries typically occur if you are training improperly, or training too intensely.

As an athlete, you know how important it is to allow your body to rest in between workouts to allow it to repair itself. So don't train too hard or too frequently with the sparring partner punching bag or you might develop chronic injuries.

In addition to chronic type injuries, it is also possible to suffer an acute injury either because of improper technique or as the result of an accident. Injuries of this type include sprained ankles, broken bones, skin tears, and bruises.

Using a sparring partner punching bag to train on is hard work since you need to constantly push yourself to develop your skill. However, a punching bag can also serve the double purpose of being an outlet for boredom, and can be used in your leisure time as well. You may find it to be an enjoyable pastime to practice punching and kicking the bag even if you are not in training.

About the Author

Sarah Thomas provides articles on sports. You can find more of her work at the site sparringguide.com.

kits for re honing a lawnmower engine?

fixing a briggs and stratton 4stroke 4hp lawnmower engine it went with a bang and a puff of oil smoke I have a haynes manuel and technical knowledge but little practical experience this is my first time actually overhauling a motor.I have managed to completely strip the motor cranks shaft and rod and piston all seem fine I had planned to fit new piston rings however the cylinder seems to have not a full crack in the block but a thin and shallow groove up the length of piston travel you can feel it with your finger nails it isnt too deep and hoping a simple re honing can iron it out however I may just replace the block as thats still cheaper than a new engine are there any good/recommended kits for re honing cylinders
NO gay answers like i dont know or take it to a repair shop please

I think if you have a crack in the cylinder wall that is wat happened when the engine went out. I am not sure if the jug would be replaceable on this but that might be one thing to look into, otherwise the crack in the cylinder wall is not going to be fixable. Good luck!

Alto Ego
Maruti Suzuki’s bestseller gets a thorough makeover. Rohin Nagrani drives the new Alto K10 The fourth car to get the K10 series engine in Maruti Suzuki’s line-up and I had to ask the senior management —how many more engine bays are there left?

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